Day 13 / Kurokawa Onsen

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We went to Kurokawa to relax and on this day we did exactly that. After another delicious meal for breakfast we spend time in the ryokan. I checked the women’s indoor bath were I relaxed and had a nice chitchat with a cleaning woman. Still my Japanese is sooo small, but at least I can manage some real conversation, being able to reply to all this kindness in Japan. I also read some chapters in a book about tea ceremony I bought in the beginning of the semester, but never found the time to read until now. What a beautiful moment, sitting there in this stylish room, listening to the sound of the waterfall nearby and reading about so many interesting Cha-no-kai details.

We walked back to the village and leisurely visited two onsen there and another private one when we returned to Sanga Ryokan – the nicest I’ve ever been in. A round rotemburo in a wide wooden bathtub with amazing smell and a view on the other side of the mountain with greener than green marple trees. Sooo calm… and simply perfect.

Did I said, we had more than a lot for dinner the day before? This day they served even more! We could have had dinner for a hole week from what they put on the beautiful plates. It’s a miracle, that we didn’t died!

 

Day 12 / Kurokawa Onsen

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Sometimes when you travel luck can be extraordinary helpful. In the evening before, it started raining intensively just a few minutes away from our hotel. We went under a shelter again just when a bus heading to our next destination Kurokawa stoped next to us. If we didn’t had to wait, we would had taken another expensive taxi back to the station. But because of that, on this day we just carried our luggage a few minutes and were on our way through the mountains once again seeing the massive damage caused by the heavy raining a month ago as well as construction sites.

And than we arrived at beauuutiful Kurokawa Onsen, an oasis in the valley between supergreen mountains. The small village is mainly made of many ryokan and onsen and a perfect place to rest – without being „bothered“ by things such as combinis and internet. A driver picked us up at the bus stop and brought us to the information center and our stuff to our ryokan. We made a walk first through the mountains than the village always along these wooonderful river Kurokawa and it’s sidearms. I love the forests in the mountains and hills – both in Japan and Germany (just thinking about one near Munich and another in Lower Fraconia), but I especially love the river… the view on how the water is running through his bed over stones and woods, the greens around… the sound and smell… it was warm and humit, but the water and trees kept the temperature absolutely bearable.

After the driver brought us to our ryokan a little outside the village and after we were able to breath again – as it’s area is breathtaking beautiful – we took a bath in one of it’s onsen. It was a mixed open air bath (rotemburo) and it turned my father, who was a little sceptical before, into an onsen lover. I also checked the women only rotemburo too, which has an even nicer atmosphere directly beside the path of a small rill.

And than, yeah… for those who don’t know it – talking about ryokan is most of the times connected to getting a lot of food. Well… at Sanga Ryokan we had sooo much, you the words „a lot“ is not enough. And everything was so increadably tasty, we had to eat sooo much of it. Amazing. And the wonderful thing about Japanese cuisine is, no matter how much you eat, it’s not laying heavy in your stomach. We would have never thought about going into a bath after it, if we hadn’t reserved a private bath, which was nice, but not that amazing as the ones before. Relaxing pure and living Japanese lifestyle including wearing our Yukata we bought before for dinner. Wonderful!

 

Day 11 / Aso

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Standing up early we headed to Mount Aso, which was an adventure for itself. Due to extreme heavy raining the area suffered from damages caused by landslips and mass of water. Part of the rail track was demaged and a replacement bus was running there. We already knew that from the internet, but an older lady was of supersweet and perfect help.

Appearently people in the area are extraordinary nice. The taxi driver who brought us to our hotel took us back to the station for free and than also stoped to get a brochure for us reporting about the heavy raining. Speaking even a little Japanese is worth sooo much in Japan!

With bus and ropeway we drove up to the Nakadake, an active vulcano with a cyan pond and sulfur smoke. When I’ve been there for the first time one could just see the smoke, so this time it was extra impressive. The area is amazing. You can walk around a little along the other, not active craters and through a lunar landscape of black sand. It’s so impressive to be so close to the earth. It’s nature and you can see how little humans can do against it’s powers. And as if nature wanted to show us a sunny picnic turned into stucking in cold clouds‘ fog before it started to rain cats and dogs. We hid under a shelter and decided not to make another walk one station below, which we than did later on the „ground“ of the plateau, where we had pure sunshine again – our sunburned skin thanked us later.